Ah one of the most stubborn skin concerns that we love to hate. Pigmentation can appear in the skin in forms of dark spots or a darkening of an area (Malasma). Before we hop into how we can fight and treat pigmentation, we need to understand how it is formed.
A common word you would encounter in this topic is Melanin. Melanin is a pigment that gives the skin its colour and there are multiple factors that can alter the production of melanin in the body, some of the common ones are; hormonal imbalances (pregnancy), sun exposure and acne scarring. This excess production of melanin is what causes pigmentation in our skin.
How fast your skin produces melanin is determined by an enzyme called Tyrosinase. It is the path of transporting melanin to the upper layers of the skin. Therefore, if we block this pathway, then unwanted pigmentation will not surface to the skin. You will need to tackle pigmentation from every stage of its production. For preventative measures, the faster you inhibit tyrosinase activity, the less chance it will surface and form on the dermis.
Tyrosinase Inhibitors Ingredients
The most common ingredient is hydroquinone, however the side effects can be dryness, redness and skin irritation which can lead to post inflammatory hyper-pigmentation. Aside from hydroquinone, there are other ingredients that are much more well tolerated by the skin and just as effective. We will get to this later!
But how about the pigmentation that is already formed, how do we get rid of it? Well, exfoliation is the key!
Regular exfoliation of the skin with AHAs is important to promote a healthy skin cell turnover rate to keep the unwanted pigment moving along. It also combats uneven skin tone and skin texture, revealing a smoother and brighter complexion. Most brightening products will already contain AHAs but a separate exfoliation will increase the effectiveness of the brightening serum, as removing the top layer of the skin will allow the serum to penetrate easily into the skin.
So, what steps do I need to take?
A consistent regime consisting of pigmentation blockers, exfoliators and SPF will keep unwanted pigmentation at bay. Here are our favourites.
.
Stay out of the sun!
Prevention is the best cure. The best way to eliminate hyperpigmentation is to prevent it in the first place so eliminate sun exposure where possible and always remember to wear a hat and cover exposed skin during hot days. And sunscreen should always be applied, even in Winter! UVA rays that cause wrinkles, premature aging and pigmentation are just as strong, all year round!
Exfoliate!
Exfoliators are great to treat the pre-formed melanin in the skin, to reduce dark spots and the intensity of pigment.
ISISPHARMA Neotone Exfoliating Cleansing Gel
Contains AHAs (Glycolic & Salicylic acid) to accelerate the cell renewal by gently removing the dead layer of the skin. It also contains Liquorice extract which reduces and prevents the appearance of dark spots. This is a light exfoliation, therefore can be used daily.
Caudalie Vinoperfect Glycolic Peel Mask
Perfect for pigmentation that is extra stubborn, this non irritating mask is formulated with powerful active ingredients: Viniferine, Papaya enzymes, and Glycolic acid. This peel treatment diminishes dark spots, visibly tightens pores, evens skin texture, and provides an immediate burst of radiance to your complexion in as little as 10 minutes.
Pigment blockers
Pigment Blockers work as a preventive, to block the activation of Tyrosinase and curb the development of unwanted pigment.
SVR CLAIRIAL Pigmentation & Dark Spot Serum
When life gives you hyperpigmentation, you can reach for this pigmentation busting serum that targets all types of brown spots caused by the sun, skin ageing, pregnancy, imperfections, and uneven skin tone. It can also be used on the face, neck, décolletage, and hands. Featuring an 8% concentration of SVR's depigmenting complex, which fades and reduces all types of brown spots and prevents their appearance, and 2% stabilised Vitamin C to increase skin's radiance and unity.
Caudalie Vinoperfect Serum
Vitamin C is a staple in the beauty industry. It is a L-Asorbic acid that brightens the complexion and treat dark spots. For a more natural alternative, Caudalie Vinoperfect Serum is enriched with "Viniferine" a naturally powerful ingredient from the grapevine sap that is clinically proven to be 62 times more effective than vitamin C! It inhibits Tyrosinase and works to reduce the appearance of dark spots, including pregnancy mask, acne marks, sun pigmentation and age-related dark spots, and prevents them from reappearing. We recommend using this in the day to neutralise free radicals and prevent premature aging and pigmentation.
UV protector
With these active ingredients working to prevent the melanin from surfacing, our skin can become sensitised and UV rays can exacerbate any pigmentation issue and undermine all that hard work from the brightening serum.
Embryolisse Artist Secret Illuminating BB Cream
This lightweight, illuminating BB cream is the best combination of makeup and skincare , it contains mineral pearl pigments that diffuse light and leave your skin looking smooth, bright, and perfected. Available in a flexible shade with self-adjusting pigments to match various skin tones with SPF 20.