When it comes to building a skincare routine, the different types of active ingredients available can make choosing products overwhelming. Which ingredient helps with the appearance of fine lines? What should I be using to treat inflammation? Which active ingredient helps to brighten pigmentation?
Understanding the functions of active ingredients allows you to select products that will work to treat any specific skincare concern you may have. The truth is, it doesn’t need to be complicated, it can be as simple as knowing your A, B and Cs.
What are the ABCs of skincare?
They stand for Vitamin A (retinol), Vitamin B (niacinamide & panthenol), and Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) — the three powerhouse ingredients that support smoother, brighter, and younger-looking skin.
A: Vitamin A derivatives such as retinol and retinaldehyde work by speeding up cell turnover, stimulating collagen production, and refining texture.
- Improve skin cell-turnover
- Help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the production of collagen
- Improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation
- Improve skin texture and tone
- Unclog pores and prevent breakouts
In simple terms: retinol encourages old skin cells to shed faster, allowing new, healthy cells to emerge. This helps fade pigmentation, soften fine lines, and prevent breakouts.
How much Retinol should your skincare product contain? 0.01 to 1%
B: Vitamin B3, known as niacinamide, and provitamin B5 (panthenol) strengthen your skin barrier — the invisible wall that locks in moisture and keeps irritants out.
Why your skin needs them:
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Soothes and reduces the appearance of redness and inflammation
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Reduces the appearance of congestion and blemishes
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Improves skin barrier function
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Hydrates the skin
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Supports the production of ceramides in the skin
How much Niacinamide should your skincare product contain? 1 to 12%
Provitamin B5, also known as Panthenol:
- Protects the skin barrier
- Helps the skin retain moisture
- Reduces irritation and sensitivity
- Has an overall calming effect on the skin barrier
How much Provitamin B5 should your skincare product contain? 1 to 5%
C: Vitamin C (especially L-ascorbic acid) is your skin’s best defence against free-radical damage from sun exposure and pollution. It brightens, evens tone, and supports collagen synthesis.
- Brightens and hydrates the skin
- Helps prevent and reduce hyperpigmentation
- Is a potent antioxidant which protects the skin against free radical damage and sun damage
- Promotes collagen production
How much L-Ascorbic Acid should your skincare product contain? 5 to 20%
Hyaluronic acid, the holy grail hydrating active ingredient:
- Acts as a humectant to hydrate the skin
- When it is applied topically it binds to water, plumping the skin and improving the appearance of fine lines instantly.
- Works best when it is applied to damp skin
Ceramides and peptides also play an important role in promoting healthy and happy skin. Ceremides increase hydration, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and help to restore and support the skin barrier. Using ceramides in combination with retinol can help counteract the dryness and sensitivity that can result from retinol use.
A serum or moisturiser that contains peptides can help support the production of skin specific proteins like collagen and elastin, as well as hydrating and promoting skin healing. Peptides may be less irritating than retinol, so may be an option for those who have sensitive skin and may not tolerate retinol.
Creating a personalised skincare routine is all about understanding the role each active ingredient plays in supporting your skin health. Next time you are selecting products to treat your skincare concerns, remember your A, B and Cs.
FAQ – Your Top Skincare Questions Answered
Q1. Can I use retinol and vitamin C together?
Yes, but it’s best to use Vitamin C in the morning and Retinol at night. This avoids irritation and lets each ingredient work optimally.
Q2. How often should I apply retinol?
Begin with 2–3 nights per week and gradually increase as your skin adjusts. Always follow with moisturiser and SPF the next day.
Q3. Is niacinamide safe for sensitive skin?
Absolutely. Niacinamide is gentle, anti-inflammatory, and helps repair the barrier — ideal for sensitive or rosacea-prone skin.
Q4. Which Vitamin C is best for sensitive skin?
Look for stable forms like THD Ascorbate or Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate — they offer antioxidant benefits with less sting.
Q5. Do I still need sunscreen if I use antioxidants?
Yes! Antioxidants complement but do not replace SPF. Always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher daily.
